In the valley below the ocean fog looks thick enough to walk on, but up above the plants are leaning into the sky.
We are in the Emerald Triangle, a trio of counties in northern California that have been honing the artisanal craft of sun-grown cannabis long before it was legalised.
According to Keefer, while the Napa Valley wine industry is worth $2-3bn a year, its cannabis is worth $13bn – “so all the innovation in techniques, tools and the way it is being grown” is heading that way.
As we talk, she pulls a thick, flowering bud from a drawer, raises it to her nose and inhales, just as she would a glass of Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
They believe the maximum benefit of the plant can only be achieved as a result of what they term “the entourage effect”, by keeping as much of the whole plant together – trace tetrahydrocannabinol and cannabinoids – as possible.
Cannabis, after all, is a weed, and will suck up everything from the environment around it: toxins, heavy metals and anything artificial added to aid its growth.
The company has also created a vanilla and bourbon fragrance for its forthcoming sunscreen, and when it opened a shop upstate last summer to cater for all the fleeing Manhattanites, House of Hackney was recruited for the fit-out.
Sample packs made their way on to the front row of fashion shows, and less than three years after it was founded the company was acquired by global cannabinoid conglomerate The Cronos Group for $300m.
Then there’s event organiser Rachel Morgan, co-founder of Altered Plates; chef Coreen Carroll who supports Jamie Evans’s gourmet dinners; and Canada’s Sarah Best, whose “pot-friendly supper club, Dirt, connects top chefs, high-quality weed and adventurous eaters to experience cannabis through ephemeral, seasonally focused menus”.
Cann uses micro-doses to deliver a sensation akin to that of a glass of wine, but if it serves as a gateway to the “canna curious”, then the market for Alpenglow’s Coyote Blue can only grow.
Back on the farm, the Johnsons sometimes like to get high on their own supply.